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Fashioning the Dandy
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12 September 2023

The book explores the dandy as a cultural type across Europe and Russia from the eighteenth century through the present day. Olga Vainshtein offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress. The dandy is described as the prototypical hero of the modern cult of celebrities. From clubbing manners, the techniques of virtual aristocratism, urban flâneurs and the correct way to examine people, Vainshtein walks us through optical duels and the techniques of visual assessment at social gatherings. Readers will learn about strategies of subversive behaviour found in practical jokes, the fine art of noble scandal, dry wit, bare-faced impudence and mocking politeness. Looking at dandyism as a nineteenth-century literary movement, Vainshtein examines representation of dandies in fiction. Finally, a large section is devoted to Russian and Soviet dandyism and the dandies of today.
DESIGN / Fashion & Accessories, Cultural studies: dress and society, HISTORY / Europe / Western, SOCIAL SCIENCE / Men's Studies, Gender studies: men and boys, Social and cultural anthropology
“Vainshtein’s brilliant and insightful book reveals the essentially performative nature of dandyism. It’s all in the subtitle: style and manners. The dandy’s gestures, stance and movement, his fashionable inscrutability, his disdain, laconic wit and social provocation come vividly to life in this wide-ranging, erudite and compelling study.” —Caroline Evans, Professor emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK.
List of Illustrations; Acknowledgements; Introduction; Chapter 1. Fashioning the Dandy; Chapter 2. Literature and Legends; Chapter 3. Charisma and Chameleonism; Chapter 4. Manners ; Chapter 5. The Body; Oscar Wilde; Chapter 7. Russian Dandyism; Chapter 8. Dandyism Revisited; Conclusion; Bibliography; Subject Index ; Name Index