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The making of a status symbol

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This book shows how Rolex has become the embodiment of individual success since the 1960s. This brand is much more than a watch: it is a narrative on a triple exceptionality: that of a product, tha...
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  • 03 June 2025
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Discover the fascinating story behind Rolex, the world’s most iconic luxury watch brand. In The making of a status symbol, acclaimed business historian Pierre-Yves Donzé offers a captivating and deeply researched exploration of how a small Swiss watch company transformed itself into a global emblem of success, wealth and prestige.

Challenging the myth that Rolex’s dominance is solely due to superior craftsmanship, Donzé reveals the brand’s strategic partnership with an American advertising agency and its genius for storytelling, which allowed it to turn a simple timepiece into a powerful status symbol. Spanning the twentieth century, this book provides a compelling case study of how creative industries have shaped consumer culture and the global luxury market.

This book is a must-read for anyone fascinated by fashion and luxury, the evolution of consumer culture or the power of branding. Whether you’re a scholar, student or general reader intrigued by the enduring allure of Rolex, The making of a status symbol offers an engaging and insightful journey through the history of a brand that has become synonymous with excellence and success.

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Price: £85.00
Pages: 272
Publisher: Manchester University Press
Imprint: Manchester University Press
Publication Date: 03 June 2025
ISBN: 9781526183262
Format: Hardcover
BISACs:

BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Industries / Fashion & Textile Industry, History of specific companies / corporate history, BUSINESS & ECONOMICS / Corporate & Business History, DESIGN / History & Criticism, Economic history, Brands and branding, Fashion and textile design: accessories

REVIEWS Icon

'Reads like a thriller. An essential epic for anyone interested in Swiss economic history.’
Le Temps

‘Offers a unique perspective on the evolution of Rolex over the decades.’
Passion Horlogère

'Spanning more than 120 years, “The Making of a Status Symbol” offers a detailed look at the business strategies, leadership decisions and branding choices that helped Rolex become one of the most recognized names in the luxury world.'
Coronet

'The book is a vital work in compiling and conveying historical archive materials charting the path of the most important institution in the watch industry.'
Hodinkee

'
What sets Donzé’s book apart is its scholarly rigor. Drawing on extensive primary sources from the Musée international d’horlogerie and Swiss Federal Archives, the author situates Rolex’s story within the larger context of 20th-century business evolution and luxury branding.'
MrWatchMaster

CHOICE Recommended: Advanced undergraduates through faculty; professionals.

Pierre-Yves Donzé is Professor in Business History at the Graduate School of Economics, Osaka University and a visiting professor at the Department of History, University of Fribourg

Introduction
Part I: The Swiss technical excellence (1900–45)
1 Hans Wilsdorf’s early career
2 Development of the Oyster (1920–45)
3 The mass production of chronometers (1920–15)
4 Communication and marketing positioning (1920–45)
Part II: The creation of new collections (1945–60)
5 Designing iconic products
6 The start of a fruitful collaboration
Part III: Embodying individual success (1960–2020)
7 Rolex becomes world number one (1960–90)
8 Rolex and the changing luxury goods industry (since 1990)
Conclusion
Index