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This publication focuses on the interrelationship between archival and bibliographic research and the study of extant objects. Papers consider how archival and bibliographic research can inform our knowledge of textiles and dress in terms of their production, consumption, dissemination and deterioration and in turn, how the study of extant objects can give added depth to this analysis. The authors include conservators, curators, historians and conservation scientists.
These postprints are the third in a series of three volumes of papers emanating from the conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University of the Southampton, and published by Archetype Publications. The themes for the preceding volumes are:
-Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation�(published 2005)
-The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials�(published 2006)
This publication deserves a much wider audience. Books of essays of this calibre are not usually a popular publishing item.
Foreword
Maria Hayward
Introduction
Elizabeth Kramer
Into the archive
Researching the domestic interior: the example of the 'Chintz Lady', Elsie de Wolfe
Penny Sparke
'I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it myself': using documentary sources in the analysis of the archaeological textile finds from Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt
Fiona J.L. Handley
What Essex man wore: an investigation into Elizabethan dress recorded in wills 1558 to 1603
Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
Abundant images and scant text: reading textile pattern books
Philip A. Sykas
Recovering identity: the role of textual evidence in identifying forgotten azlon fibres from the mid-20th century
Mary Brooks
Adopting other strategies, using other sources
'Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions': constructing the Costume Research Image Library (CRIL)
Jane Malcolm-Davies
Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII's wardrobe: an investigation of the base
Maria Hayward
A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steamship
Edward F. Maeder
(Ad)Dressing the century: fashionability and floral frock
Jo Turney
Sound recording and text creation: oral history and the Deliberately Concealed Garments Project
Dinah Eastop
Uncovering institutions
Late medieval Ladies of the Garter, 1348-1509: fact or fiction?
Shelagh Mitchell
Lace and documents: the Istituzioni di Ricovero e Educazione (IRE) collections in Venice
Isabella Campagnol Fabretti
Undated, unattributable and unfinished: forgotten samplers and their re-evaluation through archival research
Joyce A. Taylor Dawson
Tracing textiles in trade: from account books to patents
Fashioning the Tudor court
Cinzia Maria Sicca
Costume at the court of Cosimo and Eleonora de Medici: on fashion and Florentine textile production
Bruna Niccoli
Bought, stolen, bequeathed, preserved: sources for the study of 18th-century petticoats
Clare Rose
Analysing patents and objects: a preliminary investigation into the crinolines of W.S. Thomson
Katy May
Patents as a source of information about synthetic textile dyes
Rosemary M. Baker
The interaction between East and West
A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and perceptions of Japan
Elizabeth Kramer
Dragon robes and prairie ladies: the incongruity between archives and artefacts
Julia Petrov
Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles in early 20th-century domestic interiors
Sarah Cheang
Domesticity and gender explored and challenged
'A Linnen Pockett a prayer Book and five keys': approaches to a history of women's tie-on pockets
Barbara Burman
The antimacassar in fact and fiction: how textual resources reveal a domestic textile
Alice McEwan
'Inoffensively feminine': First World War military concert parties, female impersonators and their costumes
Sarah Norris
Inspiring textile collections: textiles and text combined in Winchester School of Art Library and in the Special Collections, Hartley Library, University of Southampton Libraries
Linda Newington
Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians
Thistles and Thrissels: Scottish Covenanting flags of the 17th and early 18th century
George Dalgleish and Lynn McClean
Dye analysis, textiles and text: unravelling the puzzle of Queen Charlotte's state bed
Maria Jordan and Mika Takami
Joining forces: the intersection of two replica garments
Hilary Davidson and Anna Hodson
Information uncovered by conservation
Understanding the full story: acknowledging intimate interactions of textiles and text as both help and hindrance for preservation
Cordelia Rogerson
The interaction of textile and text: the conservation of a mid-16th-century chemise binding
Maria Hayward
The investigation and documentation of a communion table carpet in Corpus Christi College, Oxford
Florence Maskell
Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: documentation of papers hidden within an early 18th-century coverlet using transmitted light photography
Karen N. Thompson and Michael Halliwell
Jewish ceremonial textiles and the Torah: exploring conservation practices in relation to ritual textiles associated with holy texts
Bernice Morris and Mary M. Brooks
A flag's life in New York: The New York State Battle Flag Preservation Project
Sarah C. Stevens
Objects without documentation: the role of conservation science in revealing more about these artefacts
Collecting a near infrared spectral database of modern textiles for use of on-site characterisation
Emma Richardson, Graham Martin and Paul Wyeth
Photodegradation of Phormium tenax fibres: the role of naturally occurring coumarins
Gerald J. Smith, Raukura Chadwick, Ngaire Konese, Sue Scheele, Stephen E. Tauwhare and Roderick J. Weston