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Papers in this volume cover various aspects of the deterioration of textiles and the different scientific techniques that can be applied to investigate the characteristics of historic textiles, their fibres, dyes etc. The authors include textile, paper and painting conservators, conservation scientists, chemists, archaeologists, engineers, biochemists and a zoologist.
This is the first of a series of three volumes of papers emanating from the conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University of Southampton. The themes for the succeeding volumes are, respectively:
-The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials, and
-Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the links between archival and object-based research.
Dr Paul Wyeth, Lecturer in Conservation Science and the conference organiser, commented: 'Historic textiles represent a hugely important part of material culture; they provide rich evidence of social history, international trade, agricultural development, artistic trends and technological progress. Analytical science can play a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation, essential preservation and continued enjoyment of such cultural heritage.'
Foreword
Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth
Conference report
Rosie M. Baker and Sarah L. McNett
Identification and deterioration of textile materials
Materials analysis: techniques and the value of analysis in the context of textile conservation
Scientific analysis in the identification of textile materials
Fenella G. France
Billowing silk and bendable binders: Is flexibility the key to understanding banner behaviour?
Cordelia E. Rogerson and Frances J. Lennard
'Net' what it seems! The impact of detailed research and analysis on the approaches to the conservation of two early 19th-century machine-made net dresses
Sarah Howard and Paul Garside
The technical analysis of two pieces of 17th-century English embroidery
Anna Peranteau, Janice Carlson and Jennifer Mass
Natural fibre deterioration: microstructural and chemical changes consequent upon ageing
Degradation and stabilisation of cellulosic materials
Matija Strlic and Jana Kolar
Surveying silk fibre degradation by crystallinity determination: a study on the Tang dynasty silk treasure from Famen temple, China
Susanne Greiff, Hartmut Kutzke, Christian Riekel, Paul Wyeth and Sophia Lahlil
Studies on ancient Japanese silk fibres using FTIR microscopy
Masanori Sato and Yoshiko Sasaki
Archaeological textiles
Optical and scanning electron microscopy techniques for the identification of hair fibres from Romano-Egyptian textiles
Jane C. Batcheller
The effect of accelerated ageing on properties of Egyptian cotton textiles treated with fungicides
Omar Abdel-Kareem and Mahmoud Morsy
Learning from the present and the past
Recognising textiles at risk: analysis for informing collection care; surrogates and accelerated versus natural ageing
Prioritising interventive treatments for textile materials
David Howell
Characterisation of metal threads in Renaissance tapestries
Anne-Marei Hacke, Christopher M. Carr and Alan Brown
A survey of the most common support methods used on historical costumes and a preliminary investigation of tests assessing the quality of conserved fabrics
Johanna M.F. Nilsson
Enabling the legacy: opportunities for analysis provided by conservation; making reference information accessible
The development of a Web-accessible reference library of deteriorated fibres using digital images and image analysis
Jane Merritt
Digital microscopy and applications of digital image analysis for the study of textile fibres
Judith J. Bischoff and Anne Murray
A model for technical analysis of flags
Fonda Ghiardi Thomsen
Characterising and monitoring textiles
Physical properties and the consequences of ageing: mechanical behaviour of aged fibres and associated measurement methodology
Accelerated ageing of fabric supports: is it possible?
Christina Young
Assessing the physical state of the fore topsail of HMS Victory
Paul Garside and Paul Wyeth
Monitoring of damage to historic tapestries: the application of dynamic mechanical thermal analysis to model and historic tapestries
Marianne Odlyha, Quanyu Wang, Gary M. Foster, Jaco de Groot, Michael Horton and Laurent Bozec
Markers of deterioration: indirect condition monitoring and non-destructive techniques
Signatures of ageing: correlations with behaviour
Paul Wyeth
Size exclusion chromatography as a tool for monitoring silk degradation in historic tapestries
Kathryn Hallett and David Howell
Identification and condition evaluation of deteriorated protein fibres at the sub-microgram level by calibrated amino acid analysis
Ina Vanden Berghe and Jan Wouters
Annotating textile biographies
Hidden details: textiles with tales and revelatory methodology
Informing textile and wildlife conservation: DNA analysis of baleen from an 18th-century garment found deliberately concealed in a building
Dinah Eastop and Ross McEwing
New insights into textiles: the potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique
Mary M. Brooks and Sonia A. O'Connor
An initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multilayered textiles
Karen N. Thompson and Michael Halliwell
Molecular evidence: dye analysis leading to enhanced understanding historic of dyeing practices
Understanding historic dyeing technology: a multifaceted approach
Jan Wouters, Ina Vanden Berghe and Beatriz Devia
Chromatographic analyses of selected historic dyeings from ancient Israel
Zvi C. Koren
Historical and analytical research of dyes in early Scottish tartans
Hugh Cheape and Anita Quye
The application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries
Alison N. Hulme, Hamish McNab, David A. Peggie and Anita Quye
Poster section
Physical and chemical characterisation of deteriorated Coptic Egyptian textiles using non-destructive methods
Omar Abdel-Kareem and Khaled El-Nagar
Raman microspectroscopy interrogating 19th- and 20th-century painted trades union banners
Averil M. MacDonald, Cordelia E. Rogerson, Alun S. Vaughan and Paul Wyeth
Understanding the economic influence of the dyeing industry in Pompeii through the application of experimental archaeology and thermodynamics
Heather Hopkins, Lorna Willimot, Rob Janaway, Damian Robinson and Bill Seale
Art or science? Reflections on the work of preparing textiles for exhibition
Irene Skals
Analysis, identification and deterioration aspects of metallic threads
Wafaa A. Mohamed
Studies on dyeing with cochineal and ageing of silk dyed fabric
Yassin Zidan, Harby Ezz Eldeen Hassan and Kh. El-Nagar
Analytical and microscopy techniques used in investigative conservation for an archaeological cap unearthed from Canterbury, England
Meg Chuping Wang
Yellow dyes in Japanese kimono
Mie Ishii and Masako Saito