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Humanitarian handicraft

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This book explores the neglected history of textile crafts in projects of social and moral reform and considers how historical processes have become materialised in contemporary humanitarian craft-...
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  • 07 October 2025
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This book uncovers the overlooked history of artisanal textiles in projects aimed at social uplift and moral reform. The contributors ask what the implications of this form of gendered craft production are for our understanding of the humanitarian imagination, relations of humanitarian production and the generation of meaning and social and artistic value. It also opens a dialogue with contemporary socially-engaged textile artists to engender critical reflection on the socially-situated meaning of textile craft in past and present humanitarian contexts.
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Price: £85.00
Pages: 304
Publisher: Manchester University Press
Imprint: Manchester University Press
Series: Humanitarianism: Key Debates and New Approaches
Publication Date: 07 October 2025
ISBN: 9781526188021
Format: Hardcover
BISACs:

POLITICAL SCIENCE / International Relations / General, International relations, CRAFTS & HOBBIES / Fiber Arts & Textiles, SOCIAL SCIENCE / Disasters & Disaster Relief, Aid and relief programmes, Fashion and textile design

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Claire Barber is Senior Lecturer in Textiles at the University of Huddersfield
Helen Dampier is Reader in Social and Cultural History at Leeds Beckett University
Rebecca Gill is Reader in Modern History at the University of Huddersfield
Bertrand Taithe is Professor of History at the Humanitarian and Conflict Response Institute, University of Manchester

Introduction: the meanings and making of humanitarian handicraft – Claire Barber, Helen Dampier, Rebecca Gill and Bertrand Taithe
1 Literary visions of craft and cooperation in the European handmade lace revival, c. 1840–1914 – David Hopkin
2 Work of hands: humanitarian craft and fair trade in Britain and Ireland, 1885–1914 – Janice Helland
3 Thinking Anglo-American industrial relief through Armenian needlework in the late 1890s: humanitarian marketing ethics, agency and identity – Stéphanie Prévost
4 Emily Hobhouse and the Koppies Lace School, 1908–26 – Helen Dampier and Rebecca Gill
5 Beyond gratitude. Belgian women, humanitarian organisations and lace-aid programmes in the First World WarWendy Wiertz
6 Threads of friendship: Quaker women, ‘peasant handicrafts’ and educational reconstruction in Russia and Poland, 1916–39 – Siân Roberts
7 Politics woven as missionary craft: the carpets of the White Fathers and Sisters from the 1920s – Bertrand Taithe
8 Caught in the net: cooperation of lacemakers in the Vologda region, 1880s–1930s – Elizaveta Berezina
9 Crafting Communist Paternalism: the voices of lacemakers in Koniaków, Poland, 1947–62 – Nicolette Makovicky
10 Humanitarian handicrafts as (dis)empowerment of women ‘left behind’. A Swedish help to self-help project in the Northern Greek village Vlasti, 1963–88 – Maria Småberg
11 Humanitarian handicrafts: in conversation – Catherine Bertola, Claire Barber, Helen Dampier, Rebecca Gill and June Hill
Afterword – Jessica Hemmings