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Dyes in History and Archaeology 35/36
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01 July 2021

Sources of yellow natural dyes provide a leitmotif running through the papers contained inthis volume. Sawwort is the source of a yellow dye that played an important part in textiledyeing in 15th-century Europe and was traded by the Florentine dye company of Francescodi Giuliano Salviati. It is less well known than weld, also traded by the Salviati company andused all over Europe as well as in Iran for dyeing Persian carpets. Some sources of yellow dyealso have a pharmaceutical role: chamomile is one such, present among the named boxesof ‘simples’ housed at the Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala, Rome.
Not every paper presented at the 35th and 36th meetings of Dyes in History and Archaeologyheld in Pisa (2016) and Hampton Court (2017) focused on yellow dyes, however. Othertopics discussed and presented in this book include the fascinating story of Cornelis Drebbel,the scarlet cochineal dye he discovered and its subsequent history; a Victorian carpetmanufacturer who used the lichen dye cudbear; and non-destructive methods of examinationof Japanese textiles.
The front cover shows sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.) growing in the photographer’s garden in theCévennes, southern France. Photo © Dominique Cardon.
ART / Conservation & Preservation, Conservation, restoration and care of artworks
Cornelis Drebbel’s Scarlet
Matthijs de Keijzer, Art Néss Proaño Gaibor and Muriel Geldof
Fake Lakes? The Use of Starch and other Adsorbent Substrates for Synthetic Dyes in Paint Manufacture
Eva Eis
Treading on Lichen: The Use of Cudbear by a Victorian Carpet Manufacturer
Terry T. Schaeffer and Laura Maccarelli
A Non-Destructive Approach to Dye Analysis for Typical 17th–19th-Century East Asian Textiles
Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki
Non-Destructive Spectroscopic Approaches for the Analysis of Dyes in Japanese Textiles: Analyses
of an Early Edo Era (17th Century) Kimono Fragment
Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki
The Tradition of Using Natural Dyes in Latvia
Anete Karlsone
Revealing the Mysteries of the Madder Bath
Vincent Daniels
Analysis of Red Yarns in Textiles from the Huaca Malena Archaeological Site in Peru
Laura Maccarelli, Terry T. Schaeffer, Elizabeth Burr and Ioanna Kakoulli
Ancient Dyes with Medical and Pharmacological Properties
M. Julia Martínez García, M. Luisa Vázquez de Ágredos Pascual and Rita Pagiotti
Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance IV: Sourcing and Consumption of Yellow Dyes by the Dyeing
Company, Francesco di Giuliano Salviati e Comp., tintori d’Arte Maggiore, in Florence (1483–1498)
Dominique Cardon and Ingrid Houssaye Michienzi
Natural Yellow Dye Sources in Persian Carpets: A Review